Iceland .. Birdwatching, Lake Mývatn, and environs cont'd.

River Laxa looking east from Rte 1 road bridge

Barrow's Goldeneye (Bucephala islandica) R. Laxa

Harlequin Duck (Histrionicus histrionicus) R. Laxa

Golden Plover (Pluvialis apricaria) R. Laxa

Redwing (Turdus iliacus) R. Laxa

Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos) R. Laxa

Harelquin Duck R.Laxa

Red-necked Phalarope (Phalaropus lobatus) R. Laxa

Harelquin Duck R. Laxa

Barrow's Goldeneye R. Laxa

Red-necked Phalarope R. Laxa

Lava field Dimmuborgir

Ptarmigan (Lagopus muta) Dimmuborgir record shot of pair

Ptarmigan - male displaying to female, Dimmuborgir

the "bottomless" soup bowl Sel-Hotel Mývatn

Skútinn IPA a welcome change from the Geysir Bread beer
by Mývatn Öl

Lake Mývatn and environs Bird List

(in no particular order)

Red-necked Phalarope

Slavonian Grebe

Great Northern Diver (Gavia immer)

Red-throated Diver (Gavia stellata)

Whooper Swan

Greylag Goose (Anser anser)

Mallard

Gadwall (Anas strepera)

Wigeon

Long-tailed Duck (Clangula hyemalis)

Scaup (Aythya marila)

Tufted Duck

Harlequin Duck

Barrow's Goldeneye 

White Wagtail (Motacilla alba)

Meadow Pipit

Snipe (Gallinago gallinago)

Redshank (Tringa totanus)

Golden Plover

Black-tailed Godwit (Limosa limosa)

Raven (Corvus corax)

Redwing

Ptarmigan

En route to Keflavik added:

Short-eared Owl (Asio flammeus)

Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus)

Arctic Skua (Stercorarius parasiticus)

Common Scoter (Melanitta nigra)

Iceland .. Birdwatching, Lake Mývatn and environs

We transferred to Lake Mývatn from Egilsstaðir on Tuesday, following the ring road - Rte 1 – north then west across a high plateau, in monochrome of snow, ice and black lava fields.

Pink-footed Gosse (Anser brachyrhynchus) were everywhere in the landscape, and we added Northern Pintail (Anas acuta), and our first Ptarmigan (Lagopus muta) to the trip’s birding list. Passing Hverir, we descended Mt. Namafjall (Namaskard) and enjoyed our first views of Lake Mývatn to the immediate west.

Arriving at Sel - Hótel Mývatn Ca. 16:30, we checked in and grabbed a craft beer or two of the local Geysir bread IPA brewed by Mývatn Öl.

 
We raised the glass to twenty years of wedded bliss and congratulated ourselves for finally completing the Rte 1 - this being our third and partial tour of Iceland. The first part completed on our Honeymoon, the second on our 10th Wedding Anniversary, and this trip to tie the ends together and celebrate our 20th Wedding Anniversary.

In 2003 we had both started birdwatching solely in preparation for our honeymoon trip to Iceland – on the recommendation from A’s work colleagues, who said that we should not (and could not!) miss the spectacle of Iceland’s breeding avifauna.

My sharpest of recollections of that inaugural trip are of the bonkers landscape, and the quality of the bird species which we saw (often for the first time ever) as we made our way slowly north and then east from Keflavik to Lake Mývatn.

A Red-necked Phalarope (Phalaropus lobatus) feigning a broken wing and leading me away from its nest site, as I had naively strode-out across a lichen encrusted lava field, from a viewpoint on the mountain pass to Stykkishólmur. Not understanding that the desolate landscape was probably chock-full of ground nesting birds. White-tailed Eagle (Haliaeetus albicilla) nesting on a rock outcrop in the middle of the natural harbour between Stykkishólmur and Landey, a second of this species seen later as it flew around and below us whilst we stood on the low hill of Helgafell.

Then at Lake Mývatn when a small flotilla of Red-throated Diver (Gavia stellata) swam towards us in a heart-stopping moment, whilst around them like whirligigs a handful of Red-necked Phalaropes pirouetted in an insect feeding flock. And that Great Northern Diver (Gavia immer) in full sparkling summer plumage still on the stillest of lake waters, some 20m offshore. Watched, as I ate my packed lunch of salami and cheese sandwiches and drank strong black, and sweet Earl Grey Tea from my vacuum flask.

Iceland was the gateway drug to my birdwatching as an adult – a hobby that would become something of an obsession in those early years following our honeymoon – and the point on which my life would slowly turn towards a future career in conservation and habitat management.

That was then, and now we were back – full circle – refreshed and recovered from the day’s drive, we finished our beers and headed across the road to the Psuedocraters.

Lake Mývatn, pseudocraters

Lake Mývatn, towards Vindbelgjarfjall

Slavonian Grebe (Podiceps auritus) 
Tufted Duck (Aythya fuligula)

Red-necked Phalarope

Arctic Tern (Sterna paradisaea)

Whooper Swan (Cygnus cygnus)

Wigeon (Anas penelope)

Arctic Tern

Meadow Pipit (Anthus pratensis)

Arctic Tern

Slavonian Grebe

return to Lake Mývatn 20yrs on

Over the last part of this week, we have re-explored the landscape and birdlife around the Lake, spent many hours photographing Harlequin Duck (Histrionicus histrionicus) and the areas specialty Barrow’s Goldeneye (Bucephala islandica) on the River Laxa, re-visited the Sulphur pits at Hverir, and the lava field at Dimmuborgir.

Iceland .. Vik - Höfn via Jökulsárlón pt 1

Today we spent time in transit albeit taking a slow drive east on the Rte.1 - starting out from Vik mid-morning and then heading east to Höfn. We stopped enroute at Foss á Síðu, for a photo opportunity before taking a lunch stop at the basalt cliffs of Dverghamrar.

Dverghamrar

Further on up the road, I almost drove the car into the verge in over-excitement as Jökulsárlón came in to view to our left! With the itinerary planned and finalised by A. I had not fully grasped the fact that we would be encountering the glacial lagoon on our transfer, thinking it was beyond Höfn? Doh!

Barely containing myself, I managed to park safely. We alighted to spend a couple of hours on site – just marvelling at the landscape, the changing shape of the light, sound, and motion of the icebergs on the Lagoon. Grabbing too many photos and feeling altogether both emotional and enriched.

Jökulsárlón

The birdwatching was splendid with both Iceland Gull (Larus glaucoides) and Glaucous Gull (Larus hyperboreus) present, along with a supporting cast of Black-legged Kittiwake (Rissa tridactyla), Arctic Tern (Sterna paradisaea), Arctic Skua (Stercorarius parasiticus), Common Scoter (Melanitta nigra), and the most engaging flock of Snow Bunting (Plectrophenax nivalis) around the car park. The latter gatecrashing the soundtrack to my short videos when a male landed on an iceberg in front of us and sang.

Before leaving the lagoon we booked a boat trip for this Saturday coming.

Höfn

Accommodation: Apotek Guesthouse

Food: Kaffi Hornid

Beer: NR. 3 ÚLFUR IPA – Borg Brugghus

Adventures in Orchidaceae pt 1 .. Shelob's Lair ..

A and I enjoyed a "socially distanced" meet with R on the Purbeck coast to explore the breeding birdlife, and to (hopefully) connect with all three resident auk species at Dancing Ledge.

Walking down through the field system between Worth Matravers and the coast, we unexpectedly stumbled across the local population of Early spider orchids (Ophrys sphegodes). Most plants were very much over, or certainly past their best, but across the distinct colonies along the short expanse of the coast, we found several that were still in very good condition.

Early spider was an orchid "lifer" for A and I, and most definately made up for the disappointment of not seeing any individuals from the extant population of Atlantic puffin (Fratercula arctica).

However, cracking views of guillemot (Uria aalge), razorbill (Alca torda), Fulmar (Fulmarus glacialis) and an albeit briefest of Peregrine (Falco peregrinus) were also enjoyed. A whinchat (Saxicola rubetra), and singing Lesser whitethroat (Curruca curruca) also added keen interest.

singing Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus collybita), Ower Wood, Sparsholt College

My first singing Chiffchaff of the spring, Ian's second - but he was just as chuffed on getting two in two days.